Label Fold Types Explained: Flat, End, Centre, Mitre, Loop and Booklet

Two labels with the same design can look completely different in a garment depending on how they are folded. The fold determines whether the label lies flat on the fabric, hangs from a seam, forms a loop or opens like a small booklet. It also determines how your sewing team attaches it, and how long the tape needs to be cut so the finished label ends up the size you designed. This guide goes through each common fold, explains how it is sewn and shows how to calculate the cut length.

Three lengths you need to know

Confusion about fold types usually comes from mixing up three different measurements:

• Cut length — the length of the tape before folding, as it comes off the cutting machine.
• Finished size — the size of the label after folding, as it lies in your hand.
• Visible size — the part the consumer actually sees once the label is sewn in, after the seam allowance disappears into the seam.

When you request a quote, always state which one you mean. Most manufacturers, including us, quote and proof by finished size and calculate the cut length themselves, but your design area should take the visible size into account. Width is not affected by folding, because labels fold along their length.

Straight cut (flat)

The label is simply cut to length with no fold. With ultrasonic or laser cutting the ends are sealed, so they do not fray and need no turning under.

How it is sewn: stitched around all four edges onto the garment, or stitched along both short ends, or inserted into a seam by one end so it hangs as a flag. It can also be supplied with an iron-on or adhesive backing.

Cut length: equals the finished length. If one end goes into a seam, allow roughly 8–10 mm of that length as hidden seam allowance.

End-fold

Both short ends are folded under, back towards the reverse of the label. The result is a neat rectangle with clean folded edges at each end, which is why this is the classic choice for labels sewn flat onto a garment.

How it is sewn: topstitched through the folded ends onto the back neck, a pocket or a lining, or stitched all around. The folds hide the cut ends completely.

Cut length: finished length plus two fold allowances. A fold allowance of 5–8 mm per end is common, so a 50 mm finished end-fold label needs a cut length of roughly 60–66 mm.

Centre-fold

The label is folded in half across its length, so both ends meet and the design appears on both faces, or the front carries the logo and the back carries size or care information.

How it is sewn: both ends are inserted together into a seam, typically the centre back neck seam or a side seam, so the label hangs down from the seam as a double-layer tab.

Cut length: twice the finished length. A 20 × 50 mm finished centre-fold label is cut at 100 mm. Remember that about 8–10 mm of the 50 mm disappears into the seam, so keep the logo away from the folded-in end.

Mitre-fold (Manhattan fold)

Both ends are folded at a 45° angle so that they point in the same direction, side by side. The label takes on a hanger shape: a flat front face with two short legs sticking up from the top corners.

How it is sewn: the two legs are sewn into a seam, most often at the neck, so the label hangs with its full face visible and its edges clean. Mitre-fold labels are popular for neck labels on shirts and knitwear and can double as a hanging loop.

Cut length: longer than the visible face, because each angled leg uses extra tape. The exact amount depends on the tape width (a wider tape needs more length to complete the 45° turn), so this fold is best calculated by the manufacturer from your finished face size.

Naming varies between suppliers. Some use Manhattan fold for the mitre fold, others for a variant of the end-fold, so always add a simple sketch to your request.

Loop fold

Both ends are folded towards the middle and brought together, forming a loop that stands slightly open rather than lying flat like a centre-fold.

How it is sewn: the joined ends go into a seam. Loop-fold labels are typical for small size labels next to the main label, for hanger loops inside jackets and for loop labels in caps.

Cut length: roughly twice the finished length plus a small allowance for the overlap of the ends.

Booklet

A booklet label is several panels stacked on top of each other and joined at one end, either folded from one long printed tape or made of separate cut pieces. It is used when a single panel cannot hold all the information, most commonly multilingual composition and care texts.

How it is sewn: the joined end is sewn into the side seam, so the consumer can flip through the pages. The number of panels and the panel size depend on the number of languages; more on this in our guide to EU care label requirements and on the care labels page.

Comparison table

These are common examples, not limits; custom sizes are possible. For help choosing dimensions, see the label size guide and the article how to choose label size.

Cutting and edges matter for folds

Folding works best with clean, sealed edges. Ultrasonic cutting melts and seals the edges of synthetic tapes, giving a soft finish that does not fray or scratch and folds crisply. Heat or hot-knife cutting is used for some materials, and laser cutting for shaped labels. Woven labels can also be produced with woven selvedge edges on the long sides, so only the ends need cutting. See the options for woven labels and printed labels.

How to specify a fold in your order

1. Name the fold and attach a quick sketch showing the front and the folded parts.
2. Give the finished width and length in mm.
3. Say where and how the label will be sewn: seam insertion, topstitching or iron-on.
4. Mark which areas are hidden in the seam so the design avoids them.
5. For centre-fold or booklet labels, say what goes on each face or panel.

Frequently asked questions