Label Edge Finishes: Ultrasonic, Laser, Heat Cut and Woven Edges

Label edge finishes decide whether a label feels invisible or irritates the skin after the first hour of wear. Two labels with the same logo, colours and size can feel completely different simply because one was ultrasonic cut and the other was cut with a hot knife. This guide explains the main edge finishes for clothing labels – ultrasonic cut, laser cut, hot knife or heat cut, woven selvedge edges, merrow borders and folded edges – how each one is produced, how it feels and which garments it suits.

Why the edge matters more than you think

Most woven and printed labels are made from polyester yarns or polyester tape. Polyester frays when it is cut cleanly with a blade, so every label edge needs some form of sealing or protection. The way that sealing happens changes three things:

• Comfort: a hard, melted bead along the cut edge is the usual reason a label scratches the neck or the waist.
• Durability: a poorly sealed edge starts to fray after a few washes, and loose threads make the label look cheap.
• Appearance: the edge is part of the design. A crisp shaped outline, a soft rounded corner or a stitched border all send a different message.

The edge is specified in two directions. The long sides of a label run along the tape or fabric as it comes off the loom or printer. The ends are where the tape is cut into individual pieces. The two directions can be finished differently, and the best combination depends on the fold and on where the label is sewn.

Ultrasonic cut edges

Ultrasonic cutting uses a blade or wheel that vibrates at a very high frequency. The vibration creates friction heat exactly at the cutting line, so the synthetic fibres melt and fuse together in a narrow strip while the label is cut. Because the heat is local and short, the sealed zone stays thin and flexible.

Ultrasonic cut edges are the standard we recommend for most woven and satin labels worn close to the body. The edge is clean, it does not fray and it stays soft to the touch. Ultrasonic slitting is also used to cut wide woven fabric into individual label strips, so both the long sides and the ends of the label can be ultrasonic finished. It works on polyester and other thermoplastic yarns; pure cotton tape does not melt, so it needs a different solution such as folded ends or a woven edge.

Hot knife and heat cut edges

Heat cutting, also called hot knife cutting, presses a heated blade through the tape. The blade melts the fibres as it cuts, which seals the edge reliably. It is a fast and robust method and works well on thicker tapes, heavy woven labels and products where the edge never touches the skin, for example labels on bags, home textiles, outerwear pockets or labels that are sewn in with both ends folded under.

The downside is the bead. Because more heat is used, the melted line is wider and can become stiff and sharp after it cools. On a T-shirt neck or on underwear this bead is noticeable. If heat cutting is the right option for your material, choose a fold that hides the cut ends inside the seam.

Laser cut edges

A laser burns and seals the edge along any path drawn in the file. This makes laser cutting the method of choice for shaped labels: rounded corners, circles, shields, letters or logo outlines. It is very precise, needs no cutting tool for each new shape and also seals synthetic material while it cuts.

Laser cut edges are slightly firmer than ultrasonic edges, and on dark polyester the edge may show a thin, darker line. They are ideal for woven badges, patches, shaped labels on outerwear, caps and bags, and for decorative labels sewn on the outside of a garment. For shaped labels worn directly on the skin, discuss softness with us before choosing the shape.

Woven selvedge edges

Labels can also be produced on narrow-fabric (needle) looms, where each label tape is woven to its final width. The long sides then have a real woven edge, the selvedge, formed by the weft turning back at the edge of the tape. There is no cut and no melted bead at all on the long sides.

Woven edges are the softest option along the length of the label and are very stable in washing. Only the ends need cutting, usually ultrasonically, and with an end-fold or centre-fold even those ends disappear into the seam. The trade-off is flexibility in width: each tape width needs its own set-up, so woven-edge labels are best for brands that use a fixed label width across many styles. They are also a good match for woven tapes and ribbons used as neck tapes or hanger loops.

Merrow (overlock) borders

A merrow border wraps the edge with dense overlock stitching, usually in a thread colour that matches or contrasts with the design. It is the classic finish for embroidered and woven patches and gives a raised, framed look that suits sportswear, workwear, caps and team clothing.

Merrow borders work best on simple outlines such as circles, ovals, squares and rectangles with rounded corners. Very sharp inside corners cannot be followed by the stitch, so complex shapes are laser cut instead. Because the border adds thickness and stiffness, it is a finish for the outside of a garment, not for labels inside the neck.

Folded edges

Folding is not a cutting method, but it is one of the most effective edge finishes. When the ends of a label are folded under (end-fold), folded in the middle (centre-fold, loop fold) or folded diagonally (mitre-fold), the cut ends are hidden in the seam or turned towards the inside. The wearer only touches the smooth surface of the label and the folded edge. Our guide to label fold types explains the folds and finished sizes in detail.

The most comfortable combination for neck labels is a soft weave or satin tape with ultrasonic or woven long edges and a centre-fold or end-fold that hides the ends.

Edge finishes compared

Which edge finish is the softest?

For labels worn against the skin, the ranking is clear. Woven selvedge edges on the long sides are the softest, followed closely by ultrasonic cut edges. Folding the ends under removes the remaining cut edges from contact with the skin. Laser and heat cut edges are firmer and are better placed on the outside of a garment or on items where comfort is not an issue.

The material plays its part too. Satin tape and fine damask with ultrasonic edges feel smoother than a stiff taffeta weave with heat cut ends. For babywear, lingerie and T-shirts, combine a soft material with a soft edge, or consider a tagless print. Our article on soft labels for T-shirts covers the comfort side in more depth.

Matching edge finishes to products

• T-shirts, babywear, underwear: ultrasonic or woven edges, centre-fold or end-fold, soft satin or fine damask.
• Shirts, dresses and knitwear: ultrasonic edges with an end-fold or mitre-fold; woven edges for premium collections.
• Jackets, coats and bags: laser cut shapes or heat cut labels with folded ends; merrow patches on the outside.
• Caps and sportswear: laser cut woven badges or merrow patches on the outside, soft ultrasonic labels inside.
• Home textiles and blankets: heat cut or ultrasonic labels with folded ends, sewn into a seam or topstitched.

How to specify the edge in your order

1. Tell us the garment, the position and whether the label touches the skin.
2. State the finished size in mm and the fold type.
3. Choose the edge finish for the long sides and the ends, or ask us to recommend one.
4. For shaped labels, send the outline as a vector file.
5. Approve a physical sample before bulk production.

Our express label design team adds the edge and fold details to the technical drawing and sends a digital proof typically within 24–48 h. The minimum order is typically 1,000 pcs per design, and production typically takes 10–20 working days after approval, with delivery across Europe. Browse the qualities in our woven labels collection.

Frequently asked questions