Recycled labels and GRS: what brands need to know

More collections are launched with a recycled-content story: recycled polyester outerwear, T-shirts from recycled cotton blends, swimwear from regenerated fibres. The fabric usually gets all the attention. The trims – labels, tapes, tags – are an afterthought, ordered from whichever supplier made the last batch. That gap is where many otherwise solid sustainability claims start to look weak. This article explains why recycled labels matter, how the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) works in practice and what to check before you print "recycled" on anything.

Why the label is part of the claim

A label is small, but it is the one component every customer touches and reads. If the main label says "made with recycled materials" and is itself woven from virgin polyester, the message contradicts itself at the exact point where the brand speaks. For buyers in retail and procurement teams, trims are also part of the bill of materials they audit. Choosing labels, care tapes and hang tags with recycled content keeps the product consistent from fabric to finishing, and it is one of the easiest components to switch: the yarns and tapes behave like their virgin equivalents.

Greenwashing: why evidence matters more than wording

Regulators and consumer authorities across Europe have become much stricter about environmental claims. EU consumer law now restricts generic statements such as "eco-friendly" or "green" that cannot be backed by recognised excellent environmental performance, and limits sustainability labels to those based on certification schemes or set by public authorities (Directive (EU) 2024/825). National authorities already act against claims that are vague, exaggerated or impossible to verify. The safe approach is simple: make specific claims ("label woven from recycled polyester"), make sure each one can be proven with documents, and avoid implying that the whole product is recycled when only part of it is. This article is general guidance, not legal advice; check claims with your compliance adviser.

How GRS works

The Global Recycled Standard is a voluntary international standard owned by Textile Exchange. Textile Exchange writes the rules; independent, accredited certification bodies carry out audits. GRS goes beyond counting recycled fibre: certified sites must also meet social and environmental requirements and restrictions on chemicals used in processing. Its companion, the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), covers recycled content and chain of custody only.

Under the current version, a product must contain at least 20% recycled material to be GRS certified, and at least 50% to carry the GRS logo on the product. Both pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled material qualify if they meet the ISO definition of recycled. Textile Exchange has announced that its recycled standards will move into a consolidated Materials Matter Standard over the next few years, with a transition period for existing certificates, so check the current rules when you plan a long-running programme.

The chain of custody, step by step

1. Recycler – collects and processes waste (for example PET bottles) into flakes or chips and is certified for that input.
2. Spinner – produces recycled polyester yarn and keeps it separate from virgin yarn.
3. Label manufacturer – weaves or prints the labels from certified yarn or tape, tracks quantities and keeps recycled and virgin production apart.
4. Garment maker – sews the labels into the product and keeps the records.
5. Brand – communicates the claim to consumers, following the claims rules.

The principle is that the identity of the recycled material is never lost. Products must be certified up to the seller in the last business-to-business transaction, and on-product claims must be approved by an accredited certification body. If one link in the chain is not certified, the claim cannot be carried forward.

Scope certificates and transaction certificates

These two documents are often confused, and the difference matters:

A scope certificate is your first check when choosing a supplier – it can be verified in Textile Exchange's public database. A transaction certificate is what proves the goods you actually bought. TCs are issued per shipment through the supplier's certification body, so they must be requested when you order, not months later when a retailer asks.

Combining recycled labels with recycled garments

If your garment itself is GRS certified, its labels and trims form part of the product. How trims are counted in the recycled-content calculation and whether they must be certified is set by the standard and its claims guidance, so confirm with your certification body before sampling. In practice, many brands choose to make every textile trim recycled anyway: it removes doubt, keeps the bill of materials simple and lets the label carry the same story as the garment.

Where the garment is not certified, a recycled label can still be described accurately – for example on a hang tag: "Main label woven from recycled polyester". What it cannot do is lend its recycled status to the rest of the product.

Common mistakes

• Accepting a scope certificate as proof of a shipment. It shows capability, not that your order was made from recycled material.
• Requesting the transaction certificate too late. Ask for it in the purchase order.
• Using the GRS logo without approval. Logo use has its own rules and requires certification body approval.
• Overstating the share. "Recycled label" is different from "recycled garment"; say exactly what is recycled and how much.
• Forgetting the care label. A recycled main label next to a virgin care tape is an easy inconsistency to avoid.
• Ignoring chemical safety. Recycled does not automatically mean tested. Pair GRS with OEKO-TEX for skin-contact items, especially babywear.

Where to start

Start with the components that are easiest to switch: woven brand labels and printed care labels in recycled polyester, and hang tags on recycled board. Our recycled and GRS-certified labels page lists the options we produce in Bulgaria, and the label materials guide compares them with conventional materials. If you are still deciding between techniques, woven vs printed labels explains the trade-offs, and EU care label requirements covers what must appear on the composition label itself.

Frequently asked questions